At three in the afternoon on Saturday, opening festivities for Grand Rapids’ new Craft Beer Cellar are well under way. The patrons are a blend of brewery folk-in-the-know, curious market-goers following the siren song of multiple “open” signs, and a strong green-dappled smattering of revelers taking a break from the bacchanalian mayhem of Irish on Ionia, in full swing just blocks away.
Located on the first floor of the newly-renovated Klingman Building, on the corner of Ionia and Wealthy, the shop makes the most of the remodeled factory aesthetic, with clean lines and bold colors balancing the exposed ductwork and wood-beamed ceiling. Though the space feels crowded with the influx of opening-day business, it is smartly engineered for enjoyment and efficiency.
The store is divided into two distinct sections. A shopping and display area, including a long line of coolers, span the area by the front door. Bottles of all shapes and sizes draw the eye, many sporting the fantastical labels that make craft beer shopping a visual pleasure in and of itself, above and beyond the anticipation of future libation.
The back portion of the shop gives way to a long bar facing a seating area with multiple tables, as well as counters along the windows overlooking Ionia. Here, bartenders are pouring from the Craft Beer Cellar’s twenty draft lines, offering patrons the always-appreciated opportunity to enjoy a beer or cider straight from the keg.
Tastings are offered throughout the day from various local establishments, and in the spirit of thorough reporting, I feel it’s only appropriate to partake. A few standouts are the “Hop Gobbler” from Odd Side Ales, the “Brunch Cider” from Farmhaus Cider Company, and both selections from Trail Point Brewing Company, an up-and-coming brewery in Allendale, MI. I chat with Trail Point owner Jeff Knoblock about their offerings, currently on tap at Craft Beer Cellar. The “Michigamber,” a delightfully balanced amber ale, is my favorite, followed by the “Henry Lee,” a strong ale which is so delicately structured and smooth I have trouble believing its ABV clocks in at 8.9 percent.
“We’re really excited,” says Knoblock of the Craft Beer Cellar’s decision to include them in the opening tap list. Trail Point is one of many new breweries in the area that have not yet begun canning or bottling their product, so being selected for a tap at bars and bottle shops is an important way for them to gain exposure to new customers.
Jessica Beeby, co-owner - and, as her business card attests, “cat herder and barkeep” - at Craft Beer Cellar takes a moment to sit down with me and discuss the shop. She and her husband, co-owner Brian Beaucher, recently moved back to West Michigan from Massachusetts to be closer to her family. They got to know the owners of Craft Beer Cellar while living in MA, and, being craft beer fans themselves, they felt this project was a natural step to support and help grow the business.
“When we did our research, we didn’t see any craft beer stores right in the downtown area,” she explains, “so we thought: this will be great!”
Later in the afternoon, while sipping some scrumptious cider and chatting with John Behrens, owner and operator of Farmhaus Cider Co., he remarks that the bottled beer inventory almost resembles a library, and it’s true - just moments before, I had only barely refrained from calling the orderly aisles of bottles “the stacks.” It’s actually very appropriate, since, as Beeby explains, one of the central focuses of a bottle shop is education.
“Ultimately, we’re doing things our own way,” says Jessica, “and we’re really happy to have a conversation, maybe try a few things, to figure out what people like.” And since all employees of the store are, or will be, Cicerone Certified Beer Servers, patrons can rest assured they’re receiving sage advice.
In addition to featuring a “Style of the Month,” Craft Beer Cellar will also be hosting tastings and special events on a more frequent basis. I, for one, plan to keep a close eye on the tap list for old standbys and newcomers alike. Next week they'll be kicking things off with an event featuring beer from Perrin Brewing Company. For more information on upcoming events and featured beers, visit their website or the Craft Beer Cellar’s Facebook page.
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